http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2823905883109981466&hl=en
More like grinding than cutting. I can take a new EL tire down to "low dots" in 8 minutes with this machine. I sell a new set of ground tires mounted on Douglas Q+ wheels for $380 plus shipping (and tax in GA). If you bring me your tires already mounted, I charge $20 per tire to grind them. Prepped tires CANNOT be ground. 800-521-3560
Monday, June 30, 2008
Thursday, June 26, 2008
BSP Valve Springs (when to change and why...or why not)
I have about 150 new springs in stock. I have checked about 50 of them in many ways. They are all so close to one another that I quit testing. I compressed a brand new spring to its solid height and it lost tension to the point that it was no longer better than a spring with 14 races on it. I stretched a spring, and it went up in tension, but after compressing it at full cam lift, it was right back to where an untouched spring was. All the fresh springs measured 10.8 lbs at .850”. My scale is only accurate to .2 lbs, but my measurements are accurate to .001”
So here’s the kicker. If you are running the stock air box and filter and the stock muffler, heavy springs are actually bad because the engine makes more power and is faster at about 5200 RPM, which is well below the 5800-5900 RPM valve float RPM. Added tension is just a waste of energy. With the little header and muffler along with an air filter adapter and bigger jet, the power band moves up slightly in the RPM range, but still not enough to turn the engine to the point of floating valves. So basically, if the intake and exhaust is left stock, worn out springs are better, and with an aftermarket intake and exhaust you will want to freshen your springs after a few races. Changing springs is very simple and can be done with your bare hands without removing the head from the engine. I'll do a picture story on that and post it here this weekend.
So here’s the kicker. If you are running the stock air box and filter and the stock muffler, heavy springs are actually bad because the engine makes more power and is faster at about 5200 RPM, which is well below the 5800-5900 RPM valve float RPM. Added tension is just a waste of energy. With the little header and muffler along with an air filter adapter and bigger jet, the power band moves up slightly in the RPM range, but still not enough to turn the engine to the point of floating valves. So basically, if the intake and exhaust is left stock, worn out springs are better, and with an aftermarket intake and exhaust you will want to freshen your springs after a few races. Changing springs is very simple and can be done with your bare hands without removing the head from the engine. I'll do a picture story on that and post it here this weekend.
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
Parts for the 6.5 HP OHV Engines
ARC now has inventory of new parts for the Yellow OHV 6.5 Horsepower BSP engines and the Blue 6.5 HP engines.
We also carry high performance parts for these engines including stainless valves, HP springs, billet aluminum spring retainers, billet rods, billet flywheels, cams etc.
We are fully engaged in loading all these parts onto our webstore and expect to have all out clone related parts online before the end of February.
We also carry high performance parts for these engines including stainless valves, HP springs, billet aluminum spring retainers, billet rods, billet flywheels, cams etc.
We are fully engaged in loading all these parts onto our webstore and expect to have all out clone related parts online before the end of February.
Monday, June 9, 2008
Pulsing the Fuel Pump from the Rocker Cover
I drilled a hole to insert a 1/8" pipe nipple into the rocker cover. The hole is below the baffle plate in the rocker cover so it is pulsing directly from the rocker chamber. The red vent tube is above the baffle plate. I have raced this a couple times now and it works very well.
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